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Getting Stiff
Subframe connectors are something that should be on the shopping list of every Mustang owner. For our own 2003 Mach I, it's been too long, so we brought in a set of Steeda's full length SFC's and got our friend at Nick's Automotive to put them in for us.
This is not a DIY job, unless you're handy with a MIG welder and happen to have a drive-on hoist. Still, even paying for a couple of hours of labor, SFC's are a must-have mod. The car should have come from the factory this way. Let's get started.
This is what the factory subframe connectors look like. In the New Edge series of cars (1999 - 2004), they were installed only on covertibles and special edition cars, like the Bullitt and Mach I. Otherwise, you got nuttin'.
Here's what we're going to replace them with. Which would you rather have? The Steeda Full length subframe connectors have been improved with a new one-piece reinforced cross brace. These true full-length connectors run the entire length of the floor pan for increased chassis rigidity, better handling and improved ride.
After removing the factory connectors (four 10 mm bolts), Nick starts by fitting the torque box adapters. These will provide a flat, level area to weld the new connectors on to, as well as reducing stress on the torque boxes by spreading the loads around.
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Once the location has been established, we need to grind away some paint where the welding is to be done. This makes for the strongest joints.
The plate is tacked in place with the MIG welder.
...and the position verified. There's a old saying: measure twice...weld once.
Everything is looking good, so Nick finishes the welding on that bracket.
Here is the first one in place. So, we'll do it again on the other side.
Now, it's time to test fit the connector rails.
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There are a couple of 'saddles' that weld to the subframe rails and the paint has to be removed there.
Also, the cadmium plating on the seat frame brackets needs to be ground off to ensure the best welds.
After that's done, the brackets are bolted in place using the seat rail hardware.
Then the subframe connectors are put in place and held there with a utility stand.
It's time to make like the sun again! Repeat the process on the other side.
When all the welding is done, a little cleanup never hurts.
A finishing touch is applied. The connectors are mild steel and will start surface rusting pretty quickly. It's only a cosmetic issue, but Nick wants his work to look as good as it performs.
The job's done. Now it's time to go for a road test. The difference is immediately noticeable and the results are gratifying. The car is much more solid, without being the least bit harsh.
The Mach has never been a car to inspire confidence in the corners, but now it doesn't feel as though I'm fighting it. We used to negotiate turning before, but now the Mach does what it is told. That's a big difference.
For additional information, contact:
Nick's Automotive
1129 Speers Road, Unit 3
Oakville, ON L6L 2X5
Phone: 905-849-0563
www.nicksautomotive.ca
Disclaimer
Yep, you got it. If you try this and it goes poorly, don't get mad at us. Don't even think of asking us to pay for your mistakes. This article is presented for your information and entertainment purposes only. If you don't have the right tools or don't fully understand the instructions, get somebody more knowledgeable to help you. Absolutely and at all times, be sure that you are doing the work safely!
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